Steps To  Natural Cover-up of Pesky Gray Hairs

  Want to turn back time and make you look as young as you feel? Killerstrands has a few tricks to turn men’s (and women with short hair) hair back to its original color. No, the boxed color kits you find in Walmart, Target or even Sally’s will not do the job, as a matter of fact those are the most harmful color one can apply to the hair, they do the worst job and contribute to hair loss & thinning.

You know what MOTLEY means? If you’re like me, you just thought it was the first half of Motely Crue’s name. . . . and a made up word…………….NOPE! Its a valid word and means something very specific. It means mottled . . .multi-colored.

Now in the first post I wrote a little while back I explained that you must learn the level system in order to ‘play’ in the world of hair color and accomplish it correctly. The level system is merely a 12 point System of lightness & darkness … you must figure that out first so we can all speak in “LEVELS” & tones in discussion of and about hair coloring.

Today’s post is teaching those of you that want a blending of coverage so the look goes from this (approx):

to this:

~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~

“Motley Color” Technique

See how the gray is blended with the brown and it appears to be multi colors instead of just one? and its not a solid cap of solid dark brown or what most of you refer to as the “shoe polish” look. This is what I will teach you today. ( Women pay attention as you can take some of these concepts and use them with your hair issues )

The next thing you must decide is what type of hair color you should use. There are 2 to choose from, Demi- Permanent and Permanent.

You must decide that, before you begin this whole process. I know how men work, they want the simplest directions possible and the easiest road to a good result. What I always have to remind myself of, is……that 95% of you do not have access to the type of hair ‘cutting’ and “coloring’ techniques we have here in LA, that is one of a couple strong reasons I go to all this trouble, in basically giving out a career full of hair secrets & tricks. I feel everyone in the country should have the same advantages, not just us that live near the 2 biggest cities in the country. For some reason that just doesn’t seem fair to me . . . it seems like the same info should be available to everyone in every state in every city (large and small). So, I just keep writing and divulging my career secrets.

There are 4 different combinations of Color and Application Techniques you have a choice of to accomplish the above look.

First the Hair Color types to choose from:

1. Demi Permanent Hair Color w/ the “Motley Color” technique( as seen above
2. Demi Permanent Hair Color and the “All-Over” Technique ( different strokes for different folks)
3. Permanent Hair Color w/ the “Motley Color” technique (above)
4. Permanent Hair Color and the “All-Over” technique

Demi-Permanent Hair Color : We carry and recommend the Number 1 brand in the world, Wella’s : Color Touch. Demi permanent is the one that gradually shampoos out over time. Now just to confuse things a little more, This particular Demi Permanent color has 2 options . . . the developer you mix the actual Tint with comes in 2 strengths…..6 Volume and 13 Volume. Using 6 Volume means it will wash out twice as fast as 13 Volume.

To be frank…….if you are covering Gray hair ( the hardest hair to cover) using 6 volume will be kind of a waste of time. . .  as it will wash out pretty fast. On the other hand, if you are nervous about coloring your hair and want to use the color with the least commitment (washes out the quickest) . . .  Wella Color Touch – Demi Permanent & 6 Volume Developer is your ticket.

Demi – Permanent Hair Color is the NEWEST category of hair color and was developed only in the last 12-14 years….  it is both determined by the “volume’” strength of developer (Demi = runs from 3 Volume to 18 Volume ) along with the tube of color being a Demi-permanent formula.

The choice I usually “begin” with a new client looking for a Blended look in calming down the GRAY in their hair is COLOR TOUCH(which runs a level darker than other lines, or it appears) and 13Volume (the stronger of the 2 developers) so it will last longer. As much as people of all races, types and genre’s worry about hair color, after doing it for years, you develop a certain confidence in the choice you make for people. Yes, they worry about the first time coloring their hair, but more often than naught . . . after the initial shock of having color on their hair for the first time I will say 10 out of 10 end up loving it. . . . and they ‘want’ it to last as long as possible.

Now, once I have gained their confidence after the first application….with the second one I will encourage the use of permanent hair color. The deal is, the best coverage of Gray hair is using PERMANENT HAIR COLOR .Gray hair is the most difficult to cover successfully, so the trick to covering it is having the top-of-the-line color AND the proper Formula. We carry Wella’s: Koleston Perfect for our Permanent Hair Color Line, it is the top hair color for gray coverage although was developed in Europe so it does run a full level darker than other lines. You must purchase 2 tubes of color for covering gray, if you decide to purchase from us, which I would encourage . . . please put the level of your hair color on your order ( in the box at checkout) with the code words “ MOTLEY COLOR “  and we will send you the 2 colors you need to cover your gray PROPERLY and then you will have your “formula”, which is half the battle.

Now to cover gray, you will always use 20 Volume Developer . . . so you don’t have to worry about ‘which’ developer to use with Permanent Color. So, if you have Level 6 color, just input “Level 6 + Gray Coverage” . . in the box at check out. Be sure to purchase 2 tubes, you only mix what you are going to use . .  so provided you don’t have hair the length of a chicks, you should get 2-3 applications out of the first – 2 - Tubes you purchase… and we would send you Level 7 colors because of the Euro difference in color. 

Now for the tricky part . . .  the  application techniques.

We have 3 - - I only use 1 but am thinking maybe I should tell you of all 3. There are a lot of hair Stylists on this site that read my posts to take my lessons to work with them. At times that is hard to hear, as I consider it stealing. This info is for the everyday person to learn how to deal with their own hair at home, because they can’t find a qualified person to do it for them. Anyway, back to the task at hand….APPLICATION.

First picture there is:

The BOUNCE TECHNIQUE : This photo is a not-so-hot rendering of this application which involves a sea sponge ( you know those rough – round- looking sponges that are a soft yellow color) Why those? They are not even and will impart a more real, more natural, look than a flat rectangle sponge will. So you mix the color, and dip the sponge into the color bowl BOUNCE it on and off the head….Begin sponging on the mixed color sporadically throughout the head shape.. . . Now whether you would use this method or not would depend on the ‘length’ of hair…short hair as this photo demonstrates: 

would work best with this technique

Continue bouncing the sponge color onto hair until desired dimension is achieved. Be careful you do not apply too much ( biggest mistake made with this technique) – go lightly . .  you can always apply more. Give yourself one attempt at experimentation.. . .  have a sheet of paper handy – to practice your technique on before you hit the hair. Once finished, let the color process a full hour…. what does it matter you are doing it at home, work on the computer, watch TV or work with it on your head . . . one of the biggest mistakes in covering gray? Left on way too short of time.

Second there is:

PINSTRIPING: Now this Photo gives you an idea of how its supposed to be applied, its up to YOU to not make it so stripe-y looking, this technique is for a little bit longer hair than BOUNCE. The main difference in the 3 applications has to do with how long the guys hair is. Everything is so accepted nowadays I had to come up with methods for ALL lengths of hair. Now you must use a sponge applicator, like this……………….

or this is even better ( both we carry and are on their way to us as we speak)

we are out, but they should be arriving in 5-6 days ( they say)

Dip the end of the sponge applicator into the mixed up and ready to go Color bowl.. Begin by hand painting  stripes of 2 colors maybe even 3 if you really want to get into it…sparingly throughout the head shape.

Continue hand painting until desired coverage is achieved. . .  again the main problem always being people using TOO MUCH color. Its easy to add more, hard to erase - - easy to add more to.

Last but not least is my favorite . . .  the

Motley Technique

Using a tint brush…………………………………………( which is one of these ) 

which is what we use to apply hair color - - - you take an Application Comb……which is one of these 

mix up the hair color and take big scoops of

the hair color and paint in onto the teeth of the comb. Then quickly take the comb and comb through the ‘lengths’ of the hair strands. This, obviously is for longer hair . . . as there needs to be a little bit of “lengths” to comb ON to… So what happens is the color is combed onto the hair leaving a very very natural look. I feel nothing looks at natural and as “less- shoe—polish than the Motley Technique. This was a maneuver taught in V.S. Academy that I modified to work correctly. I have used it for 16 years and on thousands of clients – always successfully. If you order from us I attach a couple little tricks to make your first attempt even easier.. . . as I do with almost all the hair color we sell.

MOTLEY Technique

Now what I would imagine most would want to do is to try which ever technique of application suits you . .  ( yes, of course they all take a little practice – if you really want some practice leading up to the big color day. . . . spray shaving foam in a bowl and pretend its hair color. Practice with the foam and the sponge, or the comb . . .  and just get an idea how it will work . . . 

If all else fails, get a sister, mom, grandma, you would be surprized the women that would get a thrill helping you .

Hope that help – any questions. . .  join the Google Group . . .we have . .  for some reason the comments to this Blog have been deleted ( not by me . .  I have no idea how to get it back )

They missed  most important Step : Good Hair

Never Fails. When I start to wonder if I am really doing any good out there with my hair education . . . a wonderful note from a reader floats into my world. I’ve changed the name to protect the innocent !

For J. (whom I hope conquers that 1 step she is struggling with) & all of you out there . . . here is her experience with 10,000 HEADS & a quest for the healthiest hair……..word for word:

I’m J~

…I saw your post for additional help in the Killer Strands Google Group and finally decided to write.  I know you’re crazy busy, so I promise not to take too much of your time.  To tell you the truth, I stumbled upon the Killer Strands blog a few months ago, after going onto many different sites in the quest to get my hair into its best condition it’s ever been in.  I’ve never had a problem with thinning hair (which is initially who I assumed the majority of your readers were), but everything that you said and the advice that you gave completely made sense to me.  I figured if the 10,000 Heads system helped people with those issues, imagine what it could do for someone without thinning issues, but with slight damage.  I began reading the blog bit, by bit, by bit, over and over, printing out every page and comment along the way.  I never had the urge to attempt to color my own hair, although I did read through and print every bit of that, as well.  My stylist only uses professional hair color and she doesn’t bleach overlap!!!  So why mess up a good thing, right?  You’re probably gonna laugh at this and think I’m neurotic, but after reading what you wrote about Sassoon trained stylists, I researched who was Sassoon trained in Massachusetts and finally, finally, finally found an unbelievable stylist.  It was the best decision I ever made…I can’t explain how he does what he does when he cuts my hair, but I’ve never had such of an awesome haircut in my life.  It’s been over ten weeks now, since I’ve had a trim and it still looks great!!!  So I actually go to two:  One for my color; and one for my cut.  As much as I love my colorist, she doesn’t cut hair like Tony (who is the one that’s Sassoon trained).  Crazy, right? 

So I figured I’d implement as many of the steps in the 10,000 Heads program as I realistically could, giving it a month without Gleam, Thriven and the SS, figuring if you were as informative and right-on-the-money with your information and advice as I thought you were, I’d see a difference (even if it was subtle) with implementing just a few of the steps.  I also knew that if I started to see a difference in the condition of my hair, then I would have to take it up a notch and order Gleam and Thriven and incorporate that into my 10,000 Heads routine (which I did purchase and now use religiously). I started it off with using an SLS-free shampoo (which was easy enough to do), upped my water intake significantly, and gave up blow drying for the most part (seeing how it’s summer).  I’ve practiced yoga (for a couple of years once or twice a week (by the way, my yoga instructor has gorgeous waist-length hair, which I swear she got due to all of the inversions that she does), and work out pretty regularly (including walks) and try to eat healthy.  I’m not a big drinker (maybe only a drink or two a month) and I’m drug free.  I’ve only used a straight iron a couple of times in my life (I’m 39, by the way), and glad that I don’t have FIA.  I also use Gleam 2x a day and I just can’t even find the words to describe Thriven.  I am in love with the scent and what the product does to my hair.  The scent is so fresh, clean and rejuvenating.  The texture of the product is unlike anything I’ve ever used before, but it didn’t take long at all to get used to.  The only difference is with me is I put it in (using the slumber method), but I don’t wash it out the next morning and it never fails, every time, my hair looks smokin’ hot the next day!!!!!  Well, those are my strengths using the system.  I still haven’t gotten a show filter, I do have a good amount of stress that I’m trying to eliminate and oh, boy, I do enjoy smoking a butt.. :(  I’m working on those though.  I’m only human…LOL  I’ve been following the 10,000 Heads steps to the best of my ability for exactly two months and two days now.  I kick myself for not taking before pictures.  I knew I should have, just to prove that 10,000 Heads is working for me. 

Over the past couple of months I’ve often thought about writing to you to see if there would be any way that I could help out.  I’m a transcriptionist by trade, so I am really good with spelling, grammar, punctuation, writing, proofreading, etc.  I remember seeing comments from people wishing that you’d put out a book with all of your wonderful information in an easy-to-read form, which put the bug in my head to contact you to begin with. ……………………Either way, I love what my hair has become and plan on continuing with the 10,000 Heads System!!

Thanks for your time!

~J

P. S.  So much for not babbling, huh?  :)   

I’m Julie…I saw your post for additional help in the Killer Strands Google Group and finally decided to write.  I know you’re crazy busy, so I promise not to take too much of your time.  To tell you the truth, I stumbled upon the Killer Strands blog a few months ago, after going onto many different sites in the quest to get my hair into its best condition it’s ever been in.  I’ve never had a problem with thinning hair (which is initially who I assumed the majority of your readers were), but everything that you said and the advice that you gave completely made sense to me.  I figured if the 10,000 Heads system helped people with those issues, imagine what it could do for someone without thinning issues, but with slight damage.  I began reading the blog bit, by bit, by bit, over and over, printing out every page and comment along the way.  I never had the urge to attempt to color my own hair, although I did read through and print every bit of that, as well.  My stylist only uses professional hair color and she doesn’t bleach overlap!!!  So why mess up a good thing, right?  You’re probably gonna laugh at this and think I’m neurotic, but after reading what you wrote about Sassoon trained stylists, I researched who was Sassoon trained in Massachusetts and finally, finally, finally found an unbelievable stylist.  It was the best decision I ever made…I can’t explain how he does what he does when he cuts my hair, but I’ve never had such of an awesome haircut in my life.  It’s been over ten weeks now, since I’ve had a trim and it still looks great!!!  So I actually go to two:  One for my color; and one for my cut.  As much as I love my colorist, she doesn’t cut hair like Tony (who is the one that’s Sassoon trained).  Crazy, right? 

So I figured I’d implement as many of the steps in the 10,000 Heads program as I realistically could, giving it a month without Gleam, Thriven and the SS, figuring if you were as informative and right-on-the-money with your information and advice as I thought you were, I’d see a difference (even if it was subtle) with implementing just a few of the steps.  I also knew that if I started to see a difference in the condition of my hair, then I would have to take it up a notch and order Gleam and Thriven and incorporate that into my 10,000 Heads routine (which I did purchase and now use religiously). I started it off with using an SLS-free shampoo (which was easy enough to do), upped my water intake significantly, and gave up blow drying for the most part (seeing how it’s summer).  I’ve practiced yoga (for a couple of years once or twice a week (by the way, my yoga instructor has gorgeous waist-length hair, which I swear she got due to all of the inversions that she does), and work out pretty regularly (including walks) and try to eat healthy.  I’m not a big drinker (maybe only a drink or two a month) and I’m drug free.  I’ve only used a straight iron a couple of times in my life (I’m 39, by the way), and glad that I don’t have FIA.  I also use Gleam 2x a day and I just can’t even find the words to describe Thriven.  I am in love with the scent and what the product does to my hair.  The scent is so fresh, clean and rejuvenating.  The texture of the product is unlike anything I’ve ever used before, but it didn’t take long at all to get used to.  The only difference is with me is I put it in (using the slumber method), but I don’t wash it out the next morning and it never fails, every time, my hair looks smokin’ hot the next day!!!!!  Well, those are my strengths using the system.  I still haven’t gotten a show filter, I do have a good amount of stress that I’m trying to eliminate and oh, boy, I do enjoy smoking a butt.. :(  I’m working on those though.  I’m only human…LOL  I’ve been following the 10,000 Heads steps to the best of my ability for exactly two months and two days now.  I kick myself for not taking before pictures.  I knew I should have, just to prove that 10,000 Heads is working for me. 

Over the past couple of months I’ve often thought about writing to you to see if there would be any way that I could help out.  I’m a transcriptionist by trade, so I am really good with spelling, grammar, punctuation, writing, proofreading, etc.  I remember seeing comments from people wishing that you’d put out a book with all of your wonderful information in an easy-to-read form, which put the bug in my head to contact you to begin with.  I’m not sure what exactly you have in mind for help that you’re looking for, but I would love to hear back from you to see if there’s something I can do to enhance what you offer to Killer Strands fans. 

Either way, I love what my hair has become and plan on continuing with the 10,000 Heads System!!  Thanks for your time!

~J

P. S.  So much for not babbling, huh?  :)   

Now, THAT…….makes me feel wonderful, so thank you for taking the time to write. A couple comments: you can either take or leave:

• You are not neurotic for hooking up with a  Sassoon trained Stylist, you are brilliant for that move.
• Having 2 people do your hair is the way it is supposed to be – that’s how they roll in Europe….A Colorist & Cutter . . . so if you live on the East coast sounds like it is finally trickling in, lucky you.
• Inversions ( upside-down )… positions in Yoga, are the reason I have moved that Step onto the list. Think about it, all that blood rushing to your head. . . . is sooooooo good for your hair.

Thanks again, J. . . .I will get in touch with you this week about the ‘help’

Eyebrows, Goatee, Hair – the NATURAL Look

Well, knowing that we don’t have a huge male following, I waited till I had numerous requests from men for help with their color before writing about it. But, now that I think about it, I bet there are many of you who might like to try this on your bf’s, husbands, fathers, brothers, etc. I don’t know why I have been so selfish . . there are very few men on the planet I don’t like, they are actually my favorite hobby ( hee hee !). Especially those of you who are having a great time in your Crib Colorist ventures yet, want more and more “practice” !  Hopefully many of you will benefit from this unique post.

Part of the problem of coloring men’s hair, once they begin the Gray accumulation is coloring it without having it look like it is shoe polish on the head when you are finished.  For a couple years I taught a class to other hair stylists with this trick, so those of you who have tried it with those results, don’t feel bad….it is definitely a ‘trick’ and one that is not known by a vast majority of Hair Stylists. Being in LA coloring men’s hair has always been a HUGE part of my work….even 16 years ago about 40% of my color clientele was male . . . I LLLLLLLLLove doing men’s hair….99% were straight men, that’s just how men roll… out here. The precision and art of both a men’s crop hair cut and hair color is the most difficult within the two genes. People always think the opposite, its much harder to get a man’s haircut precise and perfectly shaped than a woman’s. 

You know how bad the “boxed hair color” has gotten when I’m getting a lot of emails from men wanting to learn the proper way to do their own hair color ! They are as vain as we are and I don’t know why they shouldn’t be? We can all appreciate a drop dead looking man, the same way they appreciate a knock-out rack……er… I mean woman . . . hee hee - - You know what I mean ;-). They have all experienced the crap the ‘boxes’ do . . . and hopefully they are figuring out it can affect their hair loss as well. Something a man is more petrified at than dying !

First off, all the men that have contacted me about learning to color their own hair, have all wanted to do it because of the new and increasing gray. Running a close second is to tint their eyebrows that have recently become super gray. Both excellent reasons if you ask me. Girls want to do it, I hope every one of you support the men in your life ( of all sexualities) in these areas…there is just no reason men shouldn’t be as vain as we are. I don’t have the time to explain right here, right now…’why’ boxed hair color kits don’t work, or even why the

  lousy color at your local SALLY’S Beauty Supply ( largest & lousiest beauty supply in the world) and its horrible results. Just suffice it to say: horrible quality . . . that’s it in a nutshell. For the solution?

First all of you need to learn the LEVEL SYSTEM. Why? Nothing is easier . . . I promise you. It is merely a system that is UNIVERSAL….and coincides with how the tubes of color are marked.The Level System could be taught to a 2nd grader, so please don’t freak about learning it. The Level System is 12 levels of hair color going from DARK to LIGHT. In simple terms – Level 1 is Black hair such as Asian Hair and Level 12 is Platinum Hair such as Gwen Stefani / Marilyn Monroe. The other numbers are the hair colors in between.   

Look in the lists of Posts……………….on the right side-bar - - - - ->>>over there> for any additional posts on the “Level System” . Why you need the system is to help you pick out the proper color, how to achieve the proper color and how to think and talk about hair color.  In painting there are color ‘systems’… In cooking there are ‘systems’ ( called Recipes)…In Driving there is a ‘system’(DMV rules)……in anything SUCCESSFUL, there must be a “System”. I feel the most wonderful example is medicine.  When a person is diagnosed with Cancer ( of any sort- pretty much) they are given a “system” to cure it. Radiation, Chemo, Surgery . . . then usually meds. Then  - -POOF – they are better, or POOF they are not… but the point is, it IS a System of correction. Hair Color is the same. Hair Stylists won’t teach you it ( ridiculous) - - I bet very very few of you have ever heard of it prior to your visits here. That is what most of my readers said at the beginning of Killer Strands – many of our readers speak really in Levels very freely now its so nice to have watched the change. Men, you can do the same thing, if you want your hair color to be correct you will first Learn the Level system.

The first thing everyone must do is determine what “level” your own hair is. I notice many people are very worried about whether its a 5 or 6…..and worry (without needing to) that they are deciding correctly. The very best method? Ask another person. ANYONE. Print out this page. . . even better send a Link to this page so they are looking at the proper lighting.

I mean it is not super critical . . . no matter what hair color says….there is no such thing as “PERMANENT” hair color. They all ‘fade’ – ALL of them. So if a permanent hair color ( which is what you need to ‘cover gray’) starts out a 1/2 level too dark . . . just have some shampoo “with” sulfates handy. . .  shampoo 1-2 times….and you can tone it down 1/2 Level. See? Poof! Answers for everything.

So for the next couple days – everyone needs to do all the reading on the LEVEL System I have done, check out all the hair color charts and photos.

The next post will tell you how to mix and apply the color. But quick decisions on your Level is not a wise idea. Take your time, and the level goes off of the color that is NOT gray remember.

Killer Chemist

Detroit apparently has a once a year hair show that I found out about because I decided I need to widen my education and bought a subscription to TIME MAGAZINE.

I’m sorry, but the INTERNET for current events and TV news is just not what it needs to be.

Its like watching TMZ almost and it is terrible, in my book. Following the Housewives as “NEWS” is just not what needs to be done. And you know what ? I love the “Housewives” shows….but IN THEIR TIME AND PLACE>… not EVERYWHERE.

Sure enough on the pages of Time magazine I find one of the most interesting, provocative stories on hair  . . . that I have been yearning for.

Lady GAGA is affecting everything and people need to stand up and listen. I know she is crazy and far out. . . .but we always need “crazy and far – out” - ALWAYS …. and then boring – middle of the road , and completely UN-interesting . . . - - - -  In order for there to be something new and interesting in the world.  WE lost the KING of that - -  WE Lost the KING of POP - - - -  and we need to wake up and realize how much we NEEDED SOMEONE LIKE HIM IN OUR LIVES  > > > > He was with us for 40 years …. so we never thought much about it. We never thought he would be gone, do you know how many people I know were shocked that he was 50 years old…..he never looked like he aged, he was always ageless. He asked us to think about the planet in the 90’s. IN THE 90’s ! ! ! ! ! Its 2010. 20 Years later it took us. That is so maddening to me. I’ve always been the “freak” too…. the one who is way ahead of the norm. . . . .don’t make fun of those people………EVER. YOU NEED THEM TO HELP SPUR THE LIFE OUT OF YOU,……… WHO AREN’T.

LADY GAGA is the NEXT ‘QUEEN OF POP’…..Yes, she’s Ahead of everyone and does CCCCCCCCCCCrazy AHEAD of her time things…. BUT LISTEN TO HER……….. LIKE YOU GAVE UP ON MICHAEL. . . .God puts people like that in your life for a REAL - - VALID - - - REASON.

Don’t blow it again and again . . .  listen to those who are ahead of you there is a reason they are there. Its not just ‘weird’. . . its VALID THINKING….. and needs to be considered.

She won’t ever replace him, no one will. But the tragedy of Michael in my opinion ( as Madonna said . .) is our own fault - -  we all ‘judged him’  - -  like we are or were better than him. One of the biggest mistakes of LIFE is “JUDJING PEOPLE”.

NEVER EVER JUDGE ANYONE, UNLESS YOU ARE PERFECT and I have never ever met anyone who is. The people that judge the most, are the ones who live the most lies.

Don’t you ever say you aren’t.

Because you are.

Now to calm back down and try to show you some radical head of hairstyles . . . look at them and LOVE THEM. . .  like I have.

Its hair and hair is beautiful in any state.

Particularly so in these states……. from a great hair show that happens every year in DETROIT………………that I have never heard of…………….

I hate to think ‘why’ I have never heard of it. But, I hope from my little rant here. . . .that NEXT YEAR. .. . . .. . . . . .

IT WILL BE BIGGER and a ‘magazine cover ‘  . . . . . . . . . not just a small story INSIDE….

Knock yourself out – Detroit Hair Show

 WILD STYLE     Styled by Teddie The Braid Artist, Modeled by Candis Benford Prep time 8 hr.

Beautiful Butterfly Styled by Niecy Hayes, modeled by Taja Hiu, prep time  10 hr.

The Hummer, Styled by Little Willie, modeled by Sharv Bailey,  prep time 1 day

Its called HAIR WARS a 25 year old Detroit Tradition this year featuring 34 stylists and 300 models

I bet after this. . . . a REALITY SHOW cannot be that far off. My cousin lost his job after 30 some years with FORD. . .  recently Michigan has been harder hit than any other state. . . . so anything I can do to help . . .I am just more than happy to….

My parents spend 1/4 of the year in Michigan, the land they were born in. Its funny, my Father wanted to give his family and his children everything Michigan didn’t offer. . . wealth, work, prosperity…better weather. So he moved us all to L.A. the Land of Dreams. Now he goes back every year and LOVES IT, he has more friends than I have ever seen him have…..they both have more fun than they ever have had here in LA….its weird to think I could have been raised there had there just been one change in my dad’s mind…. and it is before my mom started running things. . . I can tell that one.  She would have stayed there. Boy, that’s a weird thought. You would NOT BE READING THIS ! THAT’s for sure!

Now our family is so dis-jointed I haven’t spoken to my brothers in 10 years and they live within 15 miles of me. I feel adding loads of money to the picture doesn’t solve any problems. . . it masks them for a while then ruins them forever. Mountains of money make for mountains of problems and problems that never can be solved. Its too late for us now. My parents are still here, but once they are gone. . .the 3 of us will go on living our disjointed separate lives forever.

Its so completely and utterly sad to me and my daughters.

So treasure where you live. Never ever think LA and California is the land of dreams…….to me its the land of screams, not dreams. When people press me on this subject ,  I say one thing to them  . . . .    ”LOOK AT OPRAH”   is my answer………. Look at the money she has amassed……………her mother and father are still alive, do we ever hear of them, she has NO relatives ? ?  I find that very hard to believe….is she ever seen with any of  them  ? ? ? ? ………………….NOPE, not a one. . . Money ruins everything.     She doesn’t talk to her father or her mother or any family members. . ……I’m just saying.                                                     ……………….Nope - - - I relate my family to hers . . . in my head – no its no where near the amount of money…..but just so I have something to keep myself from losing it & making sense out of nonsense . . .that is how I  see it  .   .    .    .    .

KC

KILLER CHEMIST

Friday July 30, 2010

Most of the Hair Color is manufactured by the country’s largest advertiser, P & G (Proctor & Gamble). They own most of the Boxed Hair Color brands, Frederic Fekai, Sebastian Hair, Graham Webb Hair & all of Wella and many – many other brands. So they  {very quietly}  play all sides of the coin.

I think its absolutely hilarious because they produce the Boxed Hair Color which forever I have called “JOB SECURITY”  for hair stylists. Boxed Hair Color is a bonus to any Salon Owner….. why? Because as a Salon Owner you bank on the fact that you will at least book a dozen appointments a week to correct the color  that Boxed Hair Color has ruined. So that means that  one company produces the color that destroys your hair with BOXED HAIR COLOR…….and also produces the color they fix it with (Wella) How typical is that of BIG BUSINESS in AMERICA? But lets get off that band wagon because it goes no-where . . . just FYI.

What I would like to point out today is that ALL permanent haircolor….whether it be the hair color you purchase in Walmart, in Sally’s Beauty Supply( the world’s largest beauty supply), in your local beauty supply or in KillerStrands . . . is all . . .  based on the EXACT SAME CHEMICAL Process.

Most of the raw materials used in hair color are actually colorless molecules called intermediates, which are in a clear liquid form or are coupling agents which combine with the intermediates and an oxidizing agent ( hydrogen peroxide – developer) to change their appearance. These small dye molecules possess a color-forming capacity, and it might take as many as six different intermediates to make the color.

The intermediates and coupling agents penetrate in the hair shaft where they oxidize or develop into permanent, insoluble colored pigments that are trapped inside the hair.  The Level System color manufacturers have created wonderful varieties, the most astonishing accomplishments to me are with the new line we are carrying in the TCE Group/Store. This new line has mastered a tonal variety I have never seen or experienced in any other line . . . and if you have problems with Brass, Yellow, Gold, or Orange Tones that you don’t like…I would head over there as fast as you can click your mouse.

http://thischangeseverything.myshopify.com/password

What my true message here is that there is only ONE METHOD for Coloring the Hair. Some times the companies mis-lead you into thinking the hair color you might buy that is considered (with absolutely no documentation or authority) “Professional”… might be a more complicated or difficult procedure of mixing and/or application. Nothing could be further from the truth. All hair color contains the exact same 2 parts.

• 1 tube of hair color (pigment – btw it is NOT the color you are aiming for)
• 1 cup of Developer (in one of these strengths: 10V, 20V, 30V or 40V)

Apart these 2 ingredients make absolutely no change to anything. The 2 ingredients must be mixed well together in a bowl in the proper measurements, applied to the hair and given time to PROCESS or DEVELOP( Usually 45-60 minutes) I see all these ridiculous commercials touting the advantages of some new hair color that develops in 10 minutes. THAT, I WANT  TO SEE. I mean, when you go to a Salon they will always have you sit with the product on your hair for a minimum of 45 minutes, I urge 60- 75 minutes. What’s the hurry?? Once you get it on, don’t you want it to develop to the proper color? Well, IF YOU DO . . . it is going to take an hour, and you just need to commit to that. Chemical Processes like this do not work properly in “minutes” . . . it takes TIME!

All the various hair colors whether it be Sally’s, Walmart, your local Beauty Supply, KillerStrands, TCE’s new line, any of the professional lines…all permanent hair color works exactly the same.

Take a Tube of Hair Color and mix with Developer

        in a bowl   then apply… Let process for 1 hour and WEELLLLLLLAAA, you have a gorgeous hair color.

This is where I want to make things crystal clear for everyone. The Hair Color process is one - single - solitary Process. There are 2 ingredients necessary for any hair color to work :

1.) Hair Color Pigment Cream

2.) Developer ( hydrogen peroxide)

Now when you purchase hair color in a box it also  has 2 ingredients….. the same exact 2 ingredients as in the professional hair Color. So don’t ever think  hair color anywhere is any tricky system. The difficulty comes from figuring out your exact formula for what you do or do not have on your hair presently. That is the key factor for what makes the hair color formulations different.

Killer Chemist

Does that sentence make sense to you? If not . . . Keep reading.

Well, I know its been forever, I know I keep promising and nothing appears . . . {its a lot to do when you don’t feel so hot} but we are attempting to give it a ‘go’.  About 8 days ago I pulled the plug on the whole idea and was conned (politely) into giving it one last shot.

100% honest here - - - I’m running out of Gas, in more than one way. So, I just don’t want to get in over my head and drown. But - - for MC ( my assistant on this project) and for you . . . TCE is here, and ready for you to play with. The whole concept is a complete experiment, never seen or hear of anything like it. One of my passions in life . . .doing things - accomplishing things - - never accomplished  - - before!

TCE is a 2nd Group and a 2nd Store. Why? That answer cannot be given until you join. Once you join,  you will  see…. why…. the secrecy. . Believe me, if  I could have  — I would - - have….out of sheer simplicity.

TCE – This Changes Everything ….

The Group and Store that will . . . .

Change everything . .

The Single biggest Road Block in Coloring Your Hair

Previously tinted hair creates the biggest rock-in-the-road for most people trying to become a Crib Colorist. I do understand how hard that concept is to fully accept, because as a hair stylist I know I never announced that fact to my clients. Now looking back, I wish that I would and ‘could’ have.

There should be a warning on every package of hair color saying : “ Once you have applied this Hair Color to your hair, you will not be able to treat it the same….not until it grows out……as far as future hair color alterations “. That is a HUGE statement, and I understand why the hair color manufacturers don’t want to do it. But the Tobacco manufacturers didn’t want to apply that warning about: how those cigarettes you are purchasing, are killing you, either. Some warnings – just need to be announced – as a matter of good faith.  I’m telling you I did not fully understand the concept until I was about 6 months into the Salon world. . .so I fully understand the confusion clients experience.

Once your VIRGIN hair is altered in any way, all the rules for coloring your hair go right out the window. If you are reading and comprehending that for the first time, consider yourself lucky. But it is imperative that all of you know this. I address this idea about 3 times a year, but I am noticing by many of your emails that it needs to be monthly.

  I will point out that once you have lightened your hair is not nearly as problematic as once you have darkened it (from your VIRGIN color). 

Can you figure out why that might be?

Once the hair is lightened you have a blank white  (almost) pallet…so to re-color it, is easier (in most cases) . The problem you will find if you were to go directly from the Level 10-N (neutral) of the photo on the top to the color of the bottom photo, is the need for the process called “filling”. Filling is a bit more of an advanced technique and I will be covering that in the NEW FORUM we will be introducing shortly ( you may purchase a membership in the current store if interested ).

If you have color more similar to the bottom photo and want to go light, that requires you to remove the dark color first. We call this COLOR CORRECTION. The Statement I quote all the time is this : Tint cannot “lift” Tint – or Color doesn’t lift Color - - Or Hair Color cannot LIFT/LIGHTEN other Hair Color - -  no matter how you say it …….it all means the same thing that sooooooo many of you have a hard time understanding.

Once you put that first box of color, or Sally’s hair color, or any of those inferior hair colors on your hair . . . you are committed and your hair will never be VIRGIN again, or at least until you grow it all the way out again. I’m only relaying the message, in hopes of getting more of you to understand the most important Rules in Hair Color : Once you Color it once, all the rules for coloring it in the future CHANGE and become an entirely different ball game. Think long and hard before grabbing that box at that discount store.  . . . .Do you really want to lend YOUR hair to the inferior quality of a $8.00 box of color you picked up at Walmart? Please - - Please think about the repercussions of that.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Within our brand new offering of a 2nd Group and a 2nd Store, we will be offering a unique version of hair color formulating assistance.We’ve tried before and failed, but we are trying a 4th time to get this down. I truly am praying for success this time, please be patient…please follow the rules, they are there to make this a success this time. I don’t do well with failure and I feel there is a way to help people with their hair color formula’s its just taken a few trial & error attempts to get to this point.

What the TCE.TCF (ThisChangesEverything.TheColorFormula method does NOT include is directions for the application of the hair color. Which I promise you is just as important, I make the mistake all the time presuming everyone has a hair stylist background, as when I was educating, it was for people who owned chains of Salons and/or were trained at Sassoon. . . when I do that, PLEASE, stop me PLEASE ask questions of me when I do that. I am an admitted ding-bat and a huge member of the CRS Society http://onlineslangdictionary.com/definition+of/crs+syndrome, always keep that in mind.

There are basically 2 types of applications: VIRGIN & RETOUCH.  Now to explain these is a tad confusing most likely to the non-pro. I think I’ve done a fairly decent job of defining what “virgin hair” is, you must know what virgin hair is to have a TCE:TCF = hair that has not been colored. Let me tell you right here . . . that is the Number 1 item clients lie about when sitting in a hair chair. “I never colored my hair…the sun did it”, a bazillion and 1 excuses  . . . which to a trained hair stylist are laughable … let me tell you all right here, they go back to the color room and just shake their heads that you really think we are that dumb… we know exactly what has transpired 95% of the time. There is that 5% that I will still be baffled by. Which many times turn out to be a medical oddity, Henna, Sun-in, one of the horrid unhealthy hair treatments that for some reason are still on the shelves.

A virgin application is first time color – hair coloring on hair not previously color-treated.

For permanent hair coloring, there are 2 types of virgin application:

1. Scalp-to-ends
2. Double-application

The type of the color  service determines which is appropriate

Scalp-to-ends virgin application. For formulas the same level as, or darker than your natural base, the method of virgin application is scalp-to-ends { except for reds – yep there is always some silly exception ;-)  }. If you are matching your natural base (same color) . . .or, going darker than your base…and you are not using red - - then you just apply the color scalp-to-ends.

Double application method of virgin application.  For formulas lighter than the natural base level and bright formulas ( reds & light blonds) , application is always started about 1/2” – 3/4” off of the scalp { soooooooo many of you forget or skip this step…} From the heat of the scalp and “body” – the scalp area lifts quicker…so you must stay away from it at the beginning or you end up with banding. You must give the mid-shaft and ends a head start and application is started 1/2”  away from the scalp and allowed to process briefly before fresh color is applied to the scalp area. The lighter (+brighter) the formula the more important it is to use this double application method. Most of you go lighter. . . . so PLEASE take heed to this message and how it works.

I will never stop telling people to  read each manufacturers directions for their hair color. NO MATTER WHAT. I have been doing hair forever, I still . . . to this VERY DAY……….will fully read the manufacturers directions. Its funny, I ‘accidentally’ found out with this new BLONDOR that has come out from Wella, that there was IN FACT a completely separate product within the BLONDOR MAGMA family ( which BTW is what I include in the OIL BLEACH KITS….!)  When you see it all on the shelf I just grabbed 10 jars of every size….never even noticing that they had developed this new incredible (completely new)  blonding agent ( something I had thought of when MAGMA came out ) – which is a 1-step…LIGHTEN & TONE. I didn’t see it, it blended right in with the other products.  It wasn’t till a month later when I had a minute to sit down and read the accompanying literature…to see what if anything had changed about using the new Blondor ….something I have been using over 10 years….I learned about the BLONDOR MAGMA that day…. and came up with the oil bleach kit I use on my (limited) clientele….I still have a couple platinum-heads. It includes Cream bleach + Glammor Oil + Blondor MAGMA Powder + Developer….for a terrific On-The-Scalp Bleach Kit.

This method is used because it is easier  to make the scalp area light or bright and harder to make the lengths and ends. If applied straight to the scalp and all the way to ends with blonds or reds  the color will not be uniform the roots will be too light. Remember go for perfection, in all that you do…even in hair color. To achieve EVEN lightening, color is first applied to the hair that will take the longest: the middle shaft and the ends.

You’ve seen home bleach jobs  - - scalp area nearly white . . . and the lengths – yummy raw GOLD! ! ! Applied scalp –to-ends brought them there. I mean that just compounds the whole problem as it grows out as well….. the Gold /slash/ white stripe….. ever will blend correctly unless you get to a high dollar color correction specialist. Applied scalp to ends  high-lift tints also lightens more on the scalp so I also ALWAYS recommend that the same procedure be used .

There are 2 theories why the hair lightens(lifts) so much quicker  . . . I know it just boils down to the heat from the body…. not any of the other complicated reasons.

Watch for the next post on RETOUCH APPLICATION . . . which will be on TCE when we open this week!

Fun and facts on both fronts. . . . I promise.

Killer Chemist

Rhiannon : now the POSTER GIRL for it – and Never Did I Think I Would Love It As I do

I just love this new cut

Its hard to see on this photo, but what ‘Undercutting’ refers to is the sides and lower part of the back are either shaved very close to the scalp OR as we do in Vidal Sassoon- use the Scissor-Over-Comb Technique of shaping the under hair very close to the scalp. Leaving the top section very long, so it kind of flips flops across the head[……..and that is kind of a cult trend hot in Europe right now, with Rhiannon bringing it to the states.

But it makes sense I guess, I’ve always thought ‘outside the box’ - - and this cut is nothing - -  if not - - - - outside-the-box!

They say this cut works best if you have an oval face shape with petite features…..to determine your face shape  —> look in the mirror - - draw around the shape of your face on the mirror with an old sharpie. . . . check the shape on the mirror. WALLLLLA!

The fashion forward trend of Undercutting has begun and I’m hoping it catches on here

This cut is for :

• fashion forward
• makes trends not follows them
• works on thick, fine,curly , or straight hair
• needs a striking color ( of any type)

  Rhiannon has had many fantastic version of the UNDERCUT . .

For some extra PIzazz in the color department the trend for the summer is the newest trend of using PASTELS. AS you see here:

The method for making pastel Krazy Kolors will be talked about in TCE: the new underground private Forum & Store that will be opening within the next week   . Please stay tundeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

And Last but not least is the styling of the Undercut. You are going to need

vOLUME-VOLUME-VOLUME  …. of the long layers on the top

I would recommend 3 different products we carry for this … All I love

Kevin Murphy’s  - Anti.Gravity - - - which he advertises as “oil-free……….now remember my theory on all the years of hair products and skin products selling us “oil-free crap?

The reason it was ridiculous was because they were using silicone’s and esters which are not “classified” as Oils….and why was that any big deal???? Because Silicones and Esters are what they put in breast implants.. . . . and nothing clogs pores more than a “NON-OIL” such as silicone or ester. I always wished I could let everyone feel what a silicone felt like. You would never use them again.

Well, I was a tad leery of Kevin Murphy’s oil-free claim although I have a lot of faith in every product he has..somebody  taught him right. But with ANTI.GRAVITY there are NO SILICONES + NO ESTERS…..there is lavender flower water, copolymers, honey extract, squalene, grapefruit seed extract . ….and on and on the ingredeint list is dynamite…. the way it works………….even better. Great Volume! Great Ingredients!

The other product? Schwarzkopf makes a whole host of excellent styling products…..I have loved every single one and they are probably the number one brand in southern California stylists…( I always have used a mish-mash of brands……But Schwatrzkopf’s OSIS LINE  has this amazing Spray Wax called AIR POMADE….light—Air-y- but with texture hold…non-greasy texture with natural shine and piece-y separation…TO DIE FOR. Just love it. I have always loved spray wax’s it leaves the hair in just the right texture….I LOVE IT>….

I will get this loaded on the store. . .  Asap. . .

Watch For TCE its getting Closer . . .   to REALITY I cannot believe it!

Rhiannon : now the POSTER GIRL for it – and Never Did I Think I Would Love It As I do

I just love this new cut

Its hard to see on this photo, but what ‘Undercutting’ refers to is the sides and lower part of the back are either shaved very close to the scalp OR as we do in Vidal Sassoon- use the Scissor-Over-Comb Technique of shaping the under hair very close to the scalp. Leaving the top section very long, so it kind of flips flops across the head[……..and that is kind of a cult trend hot in Europe right now, with Rhiannon bringing it to the states.

But it makes sense I guess, I’ve always thought ‘outside the box’ - - and this cut is nothing - -  if not - - - - outside-the-box!

They say this cut works best if you have an oval face shape with petite features…..to determine your face shape  —> look in the mirror - - draw around the shape of your face on the mirror with an old sharpie. . . . check the shape on the mirror. WALLLLLA!

The fashion forward trend of Undercutting has begun and I’m hoping it catches on here

This cut is for :

• fashion forward
• makes trends not follows them
• works on thick, fine,curly , or straight hair
• needs a striking color ( of any type)

  Rhiannon has had many fantastic version of the UNDERCUT . .

For some extra PIzazz in the color department the trend for the summer is the newest trend of using PASTELS. AS you see here:

The method for making pastel Krazy Kolors will be talked about in TCE: the new underground private Forum & Store that will be opening within the next week   . Please stay tundeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

And Last but not least is the styling of the Undercut. You are going to need

vOLUME-VOLUME-VOLUME  …. of the long layers on the top

I would recommend 3 different products we carry for this … All I love

Kevin Murphy’s  - Anti.Gravity - - - which he advertises as “oil-free……….now remember my theory on all the years of hair products and skin products selling us “oil-free crap?

The reason it was ridiculous was because they were using silicone’s and esters which are not “classified” as Oils….and why was that any big deal???? Because Silicones and Esters are what they put in breast implants.. . . . and nothing clogs pores more than a “NON-OIL” such as silicone or ester. I always wished I could let everyone feel what a silicone felt like. You would never use them again.

Well, I was a tad leery of Kevin Murphy’s oil-free claim although I have a lot of faith in every product he has..somebody  taught him right. But with ANTI.GRAVITY there are NO SILICONES + NO ESTERS…..there is lavender flower water, copolymers, honey extract, squalene, grapefruit seed extract . ….and on and on the ingredeint list is dynamite…. the way it works………….even better. Great Volume! Great Ingredients!

The other product? Schwarzkopf makes a whole host of excellent styling products…..I have loved every single one and they are probably the number one brand in southern California stylists…( I always have used a mish-mash of brands……But Schwatrzkopf’s OSIS LINE  has this amazing Spray Wax called AIR POMADE….light—Air-y- but with texture hold…non-greasy texture with natural shine and piece-y separation…TO DIE FOR. Just love it. I have always loved spray wax’s it leaves the hair in just the right texture….I LOVE IT>….

I will get this loaded on the store. . .  Asap. . .

Watch For TCE its getting Closer . . .   to REALITY I cannot believe it!